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The Forces Of Mystery
Tucked away in a remote corner of the state, lies a pilgrim spot
relatively unknown as compared to other sacred places of India. However,
Parashuram Kund has been a source of spiritual inspiration to lakhs of
devotees since time immemorial.
Situated on the banks of the mighty Lohit River, where it enters the
plains on the Arunachal -
Assam border.
Parashuram (also spelt as Parashurama) Kund is magically transformed from
a sleepy old place to an amazing congregation of seething humanity on
Makar Sankranti Day, which normally falls in mid-January.
Legend
Legend has it that when Parashuram killed his mother with an axe at the
behest of his father, the axe got stuck to his hands. He roamed all over
India visiting holy places to atone for his sins, but the axe remained
stuck to his hands. Ultimately, he came to a Kund known as Brahma Kund,
now in Lohit district, on the advice of some sages.
He
took a dip in the holy water of the Kund and the axe immediately became
unstuck and fell from his hands. With a big sigh of relief and venting
anger on the axe, he picked it up and threw it as far as he could into the
mountains. The axe split the mountains, and the spot where it fell became
the source of Lohit River. It was thus that this Kund came to be known as
Prashuram Kund and now it is one of the many revered holy spots in the
country.
Time Of Festivity
Every year, by the end of December, frenzied activity is witnessed in
this sleepy desolate place. The local administration starts gearing up to
construct shelters for the thousands of pilgrims who will be streaming
into this area around mid January. Along with the shelters, public
facilities like toilets, ration shops, medical centres and arrangements
for drinking water also come up in record time. Elaborate law and order
arrangement is also made. The age-old inner line regulation introduced by
the British in 1826 requires pilgrims to obtain permits before crossing
the Arunachal-Assam border.
The Festive Galore
It's a once-in-a-life-time opportunity to participate in the festivities
at this sacred place on the Makar Sankranti Day. Hundreds of makeshifts
shacks dot the landscape, erected by those who could not get accommodation
in the government shelters. Adjacent to the shacks, countless little
colourful shops contributed to the mela atmosphere. One could see a wide
variety of articles being sold ranging from gaudy trinkets, baubles,
clothes, and toys to exotic herbal medicines including the famous Lizard
oil, considered an aphrodisiac.
Face
Of Religious India
Taking a stroll around the place, one could see people from all walks of
life. They had come from Assam, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and even Nepal. A few
had come all the way from Andhra Pradesh. They had managed to reach this
place in the middle of nowhere by various modes of travel, braving the
discomfort and hardship. Some are rich, many are poor, some are young,
others very old and had to be assisted by their younger relatives. Sadhus
belonging to various sects swarm the place busy luring unsuspecting
devotees into their respective 'spiritual' folds. The whole scene is
indeed remarkable!
Night Time Attractions
At night, gazing down a little hillock, the view can take ones breath
away - thousands of oil lamps were flickering in the soft cool breeze;
thin wisps of smoke that rose from numerous kitchen fires and bonfires lit
by the pilgrims to keep themselves warm, formed a ghostly shroud above the
township. The entire place becomes alive; strains of music, and devotional
songs wafted in with the breeze. All this activity continues late into the
night, and the auspicious ceremony of Makar Sankranti begins at midnight.
The devotees then start to head for the Kund.
Trail Towards The Kund
To approach the Kund, one has to climb a steep hill about 300-400 feet
high and then come down on the other side, equally steep. But the going is
tough and a small dirt track about four to five feet wide wound its way up
the hill. At many places, steps had been cut and reinforced by bamboo at
the edges. Thousands of people start their trek as midnight approaches,
jostling their way while shouting continuous invocations to various Gods
and Goddesses.
Nature's Catastrophe
Looking down the winding path lit up with electric bulbs fitted into the
trees one can see the Kund at a considerable distance down below. There is
actually no Kund as such, for during the great earthquake, which shook the
whole of the northeast in 1950. Lohit River changed its course and overran
the Kund, completely covering it. Parashuram Kund, as it stands today, is
actually a small alcove where the river has been split by some huge
boulders, sending a narrow stream of water to embrace the revered spot.
This is where the pilgrims take a dip to wash away their sins.
Myths, Beliefs And Faith
After taking bath in the Kund, visit the temple dedicated to Lord
Parashuram, one of the very few that exist in India. A peculiar kind of
belief is that one is not supposed to take a dip in the Kund if one's
parents are still alive.
After visiting this place one just can't not help wondering what is that
mysterious force, which makes 80 and 90 year old people, blind, legless
and armless beggars converge at this sacred place from placed for away,
once every year. Is it faith? Superstition or just misplaced frenzy?
HOW
TO GET THERE Air: Nearest airport is situated at Mohanbari (Dibrugarh
).
Rail: Nearest railway station is Tinusukia.
Road: There are two ways of approaching Parashuram Kund. One route
is via Tezu, the headquarters of Lohit district in the eastern part of
Arunachal. About 20-km away from Tezu, on the Tezu-Walong highway, one has
to get onto a freshly prepared dirt track up to the banks of the Lohit
River. Passengers and vehicles are then ferried across on boats to
Parashuram Kund on the other bank. The other route is via a place called
Wakro. Most of the pilgrims avail of this route.