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Once known as "Pragiyotishpura" or Light of the
East, the most striking feature of Guwahati (also spelt as Gauhati), is
the Brahmaputra, whose
swollen sandy channel is so wide that the far shore is often rendered
invisible. Of its many mysterious temples, 'Kamakhya'
and 'Navagraha'
both occupy commanding positions on hilltops while 'Umananda' sits on a
small island in the middle of the
Brahmaputra.
A Tea City
Guwahati's main business, tea is booming with the new Assam
tea auction centre holding auctions that previously took place as far away
as Calcutta and
London. The large oil refinery at Noonmati, on the northern outskirts,
symbolizes Guwahati's recent growth and prosperity. The busy central
market area contrasts sharply with the almost rural riverside feel
northeast of the centre, and the surrounding hills rising beyond the
coconut palms give Guwahati a fairly appealing atmosphere.
The Town
Although strictly speaking Guwahati is split in two by the
Brahmaputra - only crossed
by the Saraighat Bridge and the ferries - "Guwahati" is taken to
refer to the main town south of the river, while north Guwahati is
virtually a separate town. The main roads out of town are the Assam trunk
road, to upper Assam and the Guwahati - Shillong road to
Meghalaya .
Assam State Museum
Archaeological and ethnographic
displays are one of the major attractions in
Assam's state museum,
situated near the centre of city. The collection includes stone and copper
plate inscriptions dating from the 5th century, a 12th century sculpture
of 'Surya', terracotta pieces and costumes.
Umananda Temple
The Shiva temple of Umananda
stands on an island bluff in the middle of the
Brahmaputra. Its location,
at the top of a flight of steep steps up from the beach, is more dramatic
than the temple itself. Ferries and motor launches leave from Umananda
Ghat, on the shore between the State Bank of India and the Ashok Hotel.
Kamakhya Temple
On the commanding Nilachal hill, overlooking the river 8-km west of the
centre, the important Kali temple of
Kamakhya, with its
beehive-shaped 'Shikhara', is a fine example of the distinctive Assamese
style of architecture. As one of the 'Shaktipiths', it marks the place
where Sati's 'Yoni' (vulva) landed when her body fell to earth in 51
pieces, and is one of the three most important tantric temples in India. A
short walk up the hill brings one to a smaller and emptier temple with
great views of Guwahati and the Brahmaputra.
Navagraha
Temple
East of the town centre, atop another hill, is the atmospheric
Navagraha
temple popularly known as the "Temple of the Nine Planets",
an ancient seat of astrology and astronomy - surrounded by large trees
that shelter tribes of monkeys. Housed in a single red dome, again in the
beehive style, the central lingam is encircled by a further nine
representing the planets.
Srimanta Sankaradeva Kalashetra
Further from the centre of the town, the Srimanta Sankaradeva
Kalakshetra, on Shillong road in the Panjabari district, was opened in
late 1998 in order to celebrate the cultural identity of the Assamese by
promoting dance, drama, music and art. Sankaradeva was a saint, poet,
scholar, social reformer and preacher largely responsible for the 15th
century Assamese renaissance. It houses a museum, art gallery, open-air
theatre and traditional Vaishnavite temple.
Janardan Temple
Janardan Temple, built in the style of Hindu and Buddhist architecture,
at Shukaleswar hillock near Shukaleswar Ghat of
Brahmaputra, the heart of
town, is worth seeing. It was renovated anew in 17th century.
Assam State Zoo
Guwahati's leafy and well-managed zoo and botanical gardens are 5-km east
of the centre. Animals include the one-horned rhino, the state symbol of
Assam, as well as tigers and leopards.
Pandu
A little further is the Railway Township of Pandu, named after the King
Pandu. Over here is situated the temple of Pandunath on the hillock. While
in forest exile, Pandavas came and lived here in the guise of Ganesha. The
images of Lord Ganesha and 'Pancha Pandava' brothers are present in the
temple besides other images. The image of Nrisingha (also spelt as
'Nrusimha') incarnation maintains a difference from others. Further west,
the sunset at Brahmaputra
is simply touching.
Basistha
Besides a picturesque waterfall 11-km southeast of Guwahati, two small
red-domed temples at Basistha (also spelt as Vashistha), in Assamese
beehive style, commemorate Vashistha Muni, the author of the Ramayana.
Nestling within an impressive grove of trees, with rock carvings in the
stream to add to the air of antiquity.
Hajo
The small town of Hajo, 32-km
northwest of Guwahati, has a special place in Assamese culture, having
been sacred even before the Ahom arrived as Buddhists, let alone after
their conversion to Hinduism. Holy to Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims, it
attracts pilgrims from all faiths, in apparent harmony. A long palm
tree-lined stone staircase climbs a hill to the small Hindu temple of
Hayagriba Madhab where, locals claim Lord Buddha gained Nirvana. Praying
at the mosque of Pao Mecca situated nearby grants Muslims a quarter (Pao)
of the spiritual benefit of Mecca.
Sualkuchi
Hajo's nearby village of
Sualkuchi is known for the production of golden Muga silk, that involves
virtually every household and for which Assam is famous.
Madan
Kamdev
Some 40-km north of Guwahati,
Madan Kamdev
was the site of a tantric temple of 'Shakti' (Durga) dating back to
the Pallava dynasty (11th and 12th centuries). The temple, mentioned in
the tantric scriptures known as the "Yogini Tantra", was
evidently destroyed, though the cause is unknown. Much of the site remains
unexcavated, but a museum preserves many finds including figures in
various erotic postures, indeed some archeologists claim only
Khajuraho rivals
the expressiveness of its erotica.
Air: Guwahati airport is situated 18-km east of the
centre, and is served by taxis and airport buses, including those run by
Indian airlines.
Rail: The railway station is in the centre of town with the state
bus stand right behind and operates a very useful left luggage service.
The back of the railway station leads into the Paltan Bazaar area, from
which most of the private bus companies operate.
Road: Guwahati is the connector city of NH - 31, 37 and 40 with
the other cities of India by road. Buses ply from Guwahati around the
cities of Northeast India by National Highways. State Transport Express
and Super Express buses of Assam,
Meghalaya ,
Arunachal
, Nagaland ,
and North Bengal
ply from Guwahati.
Local Transport: Guwahati has an efficient and extensive system
of minibuses too. Cycle rickshaws are easy to find around the centre of
the town. The main terminal for river ferries is available at Sukreswar
Ghat.
Guwahati has a good selection of places to stay. In addition to the budget options there are luxury hotels also available in the city such as ITDC's Brahmaputra Ashok.
Guwahati is the commercial capital of the North East. Most
of the bazaars deal simply in the provisions; silk and other Assamese
crafts are sold at several good shops on GNB road. The places to shop for
handicraft and handloom items include the State Government's department
store.
Pragjyotika at Ambari as well as many privately owned shops in Pan Bazaar
and Fancy bazaar, two of the main commercial markets, that sell a range of
items - from Mugs silk to bell metal, cane work to woolen shawls and
elegant Naga and Manipuri Jackets.
Tourism Offices:
The Assam Government Tourist Office, Tourist Lodge, Station Road ITDC
Tourist Office, BK Kakati Road, Ulubari
Banks:
Banks and exchange ANZ Grindlays on GNB road opposite the state museum
changes US and Australian dollars, or pounds sterling, cash and
Travellers' cheques. The State Bank of India on MG road 50m west of ARB
road, changes dollars and sterling cash, Travellers' cheques and may
change other hard currencies.
Hospitals:
Guwahati Medical College Hospital, Bhangagarh, South of the junction of
GS road and Rajgarh road
Pharmacy:
Life Pharmacy, GS road (open 24 hours a day)
Post & Telegraph:
Post office ARB road, just round the corner from the state bank of India.
The telegraph office is nearby and is open 24 hours a day.
Altitude: 55m
Temperature: Summer Max. 35°C - 22°C
Winter Max. 26°C - 10°C
Rainfall: 182 cms. (May - September)
Clothing: Cottons - Summer & Wollens - Winter
STD Code: 0361
Basistha: 11-km
Hajo: 32-km
Madan Kamdev:
40-km
Darang: 100-km
Shillong: 100-km
Nowgang: 120-km
Orang: 140-km
Manas: 176-km
Tezpur : 181-km
Click here for map Of Guwahati
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