Sleepy Cavelossim, straddling the coast road 11-km south of
is the last major settlement in southwest Salcete: its only claim to fame.
A short way beyond the village's picturesque
a narrow lane veers left across an open expanse of paddy fields to the
Cavelossim-Assolna ferry crossing near the mouth of the Sal River.
If one is heading south to Canacona, turn left off the ferry and carry on as far as Assolna Bazaar, clustered around a junction on the main road. A right turn at this crossroads puts you on track for Canacona.
Carry straight on at the junction just past the square in Cavelossim and one'll eventually arrive at Mobor, where Colva beach fades into a rounded sandy spur at the mouth of the Assolna River. This would be an exquisite spot if it weren't the site of South Goa's largest, and most obtrusive, package tourist enclave.
Crammed together on to a narrow spit of dunes between the surf and estuary, the holiday inns and beach resorts combine to create a holiday camp ambience that has as little to do with Goa as their architecture.