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THE
QUEEN OF SILK:
The famous Patola weaving of Patan is
known for its colourful geometrical pattern, which are strikingly
beautiful. The unique tie and weave method of Patola results in identical
patterns on both the sides of the fabric. The Patola of Patan is a unique
fabric of Gujarat.
The Patola is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today. What
distinguishes the Patola is the tie-and-weave method wherein the yarn is
dyed in bright colours and intricate designs worked out before being
woven. Today, only a few skilled weavers remain to make the Patola sarees.
THE RICH HISTORY:
The salvi silk weavers from
Maharashtra
and Karnataka
opted to make Gujarat the home of their renowned
Patola fabrics. The Salvis are said to have arrived in
Patan from
Maharashtra
and Karnataka
in the 12th century to make the most of the patronage of the Solanki
Rajputs, who then ruled all of Gujarat and parts
of South Rajasthan
and Malva with the capital at Anahilwad Patan.
According to folklore, as many as 700 Patola weavers accompanied Raja
Kumarapala to the palace of Patan, and the
ruler himself wore a Patola silk robe on the occasion. After the fall of
Solanki dynasty, the Salvis found patronage in the affluent Gujarati
merchant, and the Patola sarees soon became a status symbol with Gujarati
girls and women especially as an important part of 'stridhan' for the
departing wedded daughter.
DESIGN & PATTERN:
This special variety of women's wear is strikingly attractive with its
colourful geometrical patterns. This lovely silken fabric, which resembles
a printed sari is not an apparel printed by blocks. Its tie and weave
method resulting in identical patterns on both sides of the fabric,
involving complicated calculations, is entirely based on the geometry of
the design.
THE PROCESS:
The process consists of dyeing the warp and the weft threads in conformity
with the proposed design on the fabric. Hand-woven and silk yarn is used
for weaving. The process is both costly and time consuming and the market
is limited with the result that the families doing this work are fast
dwindling.
The Patola of Patan is done in the double 'ikkat' style, which is perhaps
the most complicated of all textiles designs in the whole world. Each
fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread,
which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is
tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the knotted
portions of the thread do not catch the colours.
The result is not only a tremendous richness in colour of the fabric, but
that both side of the saree look exactly alike, and can be worn either
way. In fact except to an expert, a Patola looks like a piece of silk
fabric, printed on both sides in the same design. The weaving is done on
simple traditional handlooms, and the dyes used are made from vegetable
extracts and other natural colours, which are so fast that there is a
Gujarati saying that "the Patola will tear, but the colour will not
fade."
A COLLECTOR'S DELIGHT:
A Patola saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated
the designs is. The more elaborate ones may take a weaver a whole year to
complete. Therefore, it is hardly surprising that they have fabulous price
tags, but then it is a collector's item.
If the length is 5 or 6 metres, it can cost from Rs.50, 000/- to over
Rs.100,000, a piece. Patan produces very
intricate patterns worked with precision and clarity, with the
characteristic geometric delineation of the design, while maintaining the
soft hazy outlines, a natural effect of the technique. In an area called
Sadvi Wada, you can watch the complex weaving of silk Patola saris, once
the preferred garment of queens and aristocrats, and now made by just one
family.
THE DISTINCT STYLES:
There were four distinct styles in the Patolas woven originally in
Gujarat by the Salvi community. The double
'ikkat' sarees with all over patterns of flowers, parrots, dancing figures
and elephants were used by the Jains and Hindus. For the Muslim Vora
community special sarees with geometric and floral designs were woven for
use during weddings.
There were also the sarees woven for the Maharashtrian Brahmins with a
plain, dark-coloured body and borders with women and birds, called the
Nari Kunj. There was a cloth specially woven for the traditional export
markets in the Far East.
MAIN CENTRES:
Patola is a specialty of Patan, and is
famous for extremely delicate patterns woven with great precision and
clarity. Besides Patan, Surat is acclaimed
for velvets with Patola patterns.