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Clustered around a lumpy outcrop of eroded rocks, 4-km up
the valley from Chemrey, the small Gompa of Thak Thok (pronounced Tak Tak
and meaning "top of the rocks") is the sole representative in
Ladakh
of the ancient Nyingmapa order.
The Main Temple
The main shrine here is a cave in which the apostle Padmasambhava is said
to have meditated during his epic 8th century journey to Tibet. Blackened
over the years by sticky but ter-lamp and incense smoke, the dark and
mysterious grotto is now somewhat upstaged by the monastery's more modern
wings nearby. As well as some spectacular thirty-year-old wall paintings,
the Urgyan Photan Du-khang harbours a collection of multicoloured yak
butter candle sculptures made by the head lama.
For a glimpse of "State of the art" Buddhist iconography, head
to the top of Thak Thok village, where a shiny new temple houses a row of
huge gleaming Buddhas, decked out in silk robes and surrounded by garish
modern murals.
The Festivities
Apart from during the annual festivals of Thak Thok Tse Chu (9-11 of the
sixth Tibetan month) and viz Thak Thok Manchog (20-29 of the ninth Tibetan
month), the village itself is a tranquil place, blessed with serene views
south over the snowy mountains behind Hemis.
Road: Three buses a day leave Leh for Thak Thok: the first and most convenient at 10.30 am, and the last at 4.00 pm, returning at 7.00 pm.
Accommodation is available in the J&KTDC tourist bungalow. There are also plenty of ideal camping spots beside the river, although as ever one should seek permission before putting up a tent on someone's field.
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