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The Rites Of Life
One of the most popular monastic selections in Ladakh, the festival of
them is symbolises the centuries-old traditions of the Kar-gyur-pa sect of
Tibetan Buddhism.
An Interesting Tale
It is a centuries old story that sounds more like something out of a Hans
Anderson, only it is not a fairy tale. A long time ago (circa 12th
century), through the barren freezing wastes of western Tibet venerated
monk, following possibly an equally ancient Silk Route through the
Korakorams, or perhaps the Kailash Trail west down the hoary Indus finally
reaching what then was the kingdom of Ladakh.
He found this sparsely populated region with a density of less than one
person per couple of kilometers too distracting and sought greater
seclusion in this wilderness. A remote cave deep in a re-entrant on the
northern flanks of the Zanskars found favour
with Rgodtshangpa Mgonpo Rdor Rje who meditated there the rest of his
life, in the process of establishing the "Bya Brgyupda" school
of Buddhism in Ladakh
.
Establishment Of the Monastery
For the next couple of hundred years the cave called 'Rgod Tshang' was
the focus of religious favour prompting the king of a Ladakh, King Sengge
Namgyal to establish a monastery there around 1600 AD. Appropriately it
was called 'Chan Chub Sand Ling' (The solitary place of the compassionate
one) in honour of Rgodtshangpa Rje, the reclusive monk. It took another
130 odd years for the monastery to develop its distinctive styles of
painting, sculpture and religious art, which have evolved from their roots
in the Brugpa tradition of Buddhism in Tibet.
Under the royal patronage of the powerful Namgyal dynasty - which traced
its roots to Tibet-the monastery underwent a major renovation under
Rimpoche Rgyalsras, the Third Incarnate of "Stagtshang". He
introduced an annual fair called Wangchlong. It has been held ever since
with ever increasing popularity that is now global, ironically rendering
the monastery no longer solitary, nor its younger residents as
compassionate.
A Monastic Festivity
Held in the months of June-July, the festival of Hemis symbolises the
traditions of the Kar-gyut-pa sect of Tibetan monasticism.
This festival, like the many others held in monasteries, is more a symbol
of reaffirmation amongst the Buddhist devout than a carnival, However,
given the harsh and isolated lives led by villagers in this region, over a
period of time the event has evolved in an occasion that combines
religious solemnity with an opportunity for revelry and socialising.
The Hemis festival is by far the most popular of all monastic
celebrations in Ladakh, to an extent that it often features as a "must
see' on the popularity on the international circuit is its timing
(June-July) coinciding with summer holidays as well as the opening in of
road routes to Ladakh, which are barred by heavy snow on the high mountain
places of Joji-la, Tagalong-la and Rohtang from October to May.
Untouched By Aggressors
Additionally, amongst the older monasteries it is about the only one that
was not subjected to the unpleasant attentions of the Dora general Zorawar
Singh who pillaged several monasteries during his 18th century foray into
Ladakh . The credit
for this goes to its founder monks, Lamas Rje and Rasdpa who chose as it
so remote and astutely concealed that - unlike other monasteries By the
Indus, which are visible kilometers away in the thin; crystal air of
Ladakh Hemis and its priceless treasures escaped General Zorawar's
ravages. Even today the monastery is visible only during the last 250
meters of its approach.
The original treasures of Hemis have added to its fame thereby attracting
the attention of many experts specialising in ancient arts of appreciation
an interpretation. Consequently, many of its treasures are no longer on
display. The management committee is planning to create a museum to
display. The management committee is planning to create a museum to
display these rare artefacts too.
The Festival Of Padamasambhava
The Hemis festival is dedicated to Lord Padmasambhava (Gur Rimpoche)
venerated as the representative reincarnate of Buddha. He is believed to
have been born on the 10th day of the fifth month of the Monkey year as
predicted by the "Shakia Muni Buddha". It is also believed that
his life mission was, and remains, to improve the spiritual condition of
all living beings.
And so on this day, which comes once in a cycle of 12 years, Hemis
observes a major extravaganza in his memory. The next is scheduled for
2004 the highlight of which will be the display of a 250-year-old, 50-feet
long portrait in silk of this saint and some special prayers and masked
dances in his honour. The observance of these sacred rituals is believed
to give spiritual strength and good health.
Ceremonies
The ceremonies begin with an early morning ritual atop the Gompa where,
to the beat of drums and the resounding clash of cymbals and the spiritual
wail of pipes, the portrait of "Dadmokarpo" or "Rygyalsras
Rimpoche" is then ceremoniously put on display for all to admire and
worship.
Entering the monasteries is like stepping out of a time machine into
another, timeless world. Attending the prayers in the Dukhang- that
proceed the "Chhams" - may prove a very spiritual experience
irrespective of one's faith. Many old Thangkas normally packed away inside
are displayed during the festival and constitute a major treat for art
lovers. Also the last minute practice, dressing up and expectant air of
excitement has its own infectious appeal.
The Masked Performances
The most esoteric of festivities are the mystic mask dances. Chhams, as
it is known in Ladakhi is a complexly choreographed, religiously oriented
dance drama - held in the Chamra of the monastery. The resident monks of
the monastery perform it. Using hideously contorted masks representing
various divinities, guardian angels and devils from the Buddhist pantheon
the dances will symbolise in a very colourful ritual the supremacy and
permanence of the good. As in the past one is likely to find the
combination of complex dance steps to the accompaniment of raw musical
intonation compelling.
Exquisite Buddhist Frescoes
Of all the rooms full of historic relics the one that makes the most
impact is the oldest, the Dukhang Ryinpa. (Primarily because the frescoes
and wall paintings are original, untouched /restored and dating back to
around 1750 AD.) The frescoes depicting the scenes of the Buddha Lila and
the Buddha reincarnates are derived from the distinctive styles and
influences of art from further east.
The sober colors used were made from grinding coloured rocks and
powdering precious metals like gold and silver and semi-precious stones
such as pherozas and corals. (The mountains of eastern Ladakh are known
for the colurful hues of their rocks not to mention the 'Coral Hill' on
the banks of Pngong-tso.) Even today there is luster and clarity to these
wall paintings that defy time. Unfortunately, of late, retouching is done
with chemically derived paints that rob this ancient art done with
chemically derived paints rob this ancient art much of its spiritual
impression and don't last even a few years. The 15-feet-long statue of
Padmasambhava in the Guru Lhakhag - though made in 1982 - is still another
impressive work of art.
The festival has tremendous appeal across the width of Ladakh. Even if
one is not religiously inclined the lush terraced fields amidst the barren
desert, the scent of blooming Rose Webbiana, random wafts of sage and
Nepeta Clarkei, the snow-clad towering Zanskars, the quiet, hospitable
people living in quaint villages and picturesque vistas make for an
idyllic opportunity for those wanting to explore the off beaten tracks!
Last Revelation
In the treasured words of philosopher monk Rig-Dzin Chenpo - "When
the end of the Degraded time reaches, I shall come for the sake of the
(faithful); every morning and evening of eachday, riding the colourful
Rays of the Sun..." So be there, Get lucky!
Air: Leh
is well-connected by air from
Delhi and
Srinagar .
Road: Leh is connected by road via New Delhi-Chandigarh
-Shimla -Manali
-Rohtang
Pass -Upshi-Karu. Hemis is approximately an hour's scenic drive
(42-km) from Leh to the east, 7-km from the village of Karu.