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The Land Of Celebration
The centuries -old culture of
Ladakh has found
expression in its monuments, monasteries, oral literature, art forms and
fairs and festivals. And in the time-honoured tradition of collective
celebration ; every occasion -marriage , birth , harvesting or even the
flowering of plants --- is marked by feasting, dancing and the singing of
folk songs that form a part of its living heritage .
Monastic Festivals: A Carnival Of Life
But it is the monastic festivals that provide the average Ladakhi with
the spice of life. No other festival can match them in religious and
entertainment value.
Monastic festivals are held to commemorate the founding of a monastery,
the birthday of its patron saint or major events in the evolution of
Tibetan Buddhism. Thousands of people turn out in their colorful best,
making every festival a carnival of colours.
Experience The Power Of 'Chhams'
Chhams, a highly choreographed scared dance-drama, is the core event of
every monastic festival. A select group of resident Lamas, in brightly
patterned brocade robes, perform these dances in the courtyard of the
monastery. All of them wear masks which represent various divinities found
in the Gon Khang' - the room dedicated to the guardian divinities in every
major monastery. Some may even represent characters from historical
episodes or Tibetan fables.
The Lamas, holding ritual objects in their hands, step around the central
flagpole of the monastic courtyard in solemn dance and mime, accompanied
by the crash of cymbals, the boom of drums, the melodious sound of the
'Shawn', and the deep resonance of twelve -foot horns.
The Beginning
Every dance begins with 'Ser Kyem', an invocation - by offering of sacred
water and food - to the gods and the guardians of the four quarters to
witness the 'Chhams'.
The Interludes
In between the more sombre dances, relief is provided by performers in
the guise of skeletons who perform comic and acrobatic feats.
And At Last, The End Of Evil
As the 'Chhams' approaches climax, the votive offering - a grotesque
human figure made of dough is ritually dismembered. This is traditionally
done by 'Jha Nak', leader of the black hat dancers. He then scatters the
pieces in the four cardinal directions. This act has many interpretations:
cleansing of the soul, the dissolution of the human body after death, or a
re - enactment of the assassination of the Tibetan apostate king
Lang-dar-ma by a Buddhist monk in AD 842.
Of This Life And The Next
The rites and ceremonies of the festival are conducted by the ' Rimpoche'
or Head Lama incarnate of the monastery. He occupies a high throne in the
centre of the verandah at one side of the rectangular courtyard. Other
Lamas sit on either side of the throne on carpet-covered straw mattresses,
according to their hierarchy.
The Lamas recite mantras associated with various episode of 'Chhams'
under the 'Rimpoche's direction, thus creating the right ambience for
devotees to imbibe the religious significance of the dances. The
appearance of the masked dancers serves to familiarise the devotees with
the kind of divinities they are to encounter during the 49-day, 'Bardo'
(or transit) period between death and rebirth in one of the six forms of
existence depending upon one's 'Karma' (deeds).
Makeshift Markets And Merrymaking
The monastic festivals also provide an opportunity for socialising
trading and organising outings. A makeshift market springs up overnight
outside the monastic complex. During the summer festivals, people organise
picnics overnight excursions, and all-night singing and dancing parties.