Filled With Remarkable Landscapes
J&K land is a happy combination of the mighty splendor of mountains,
of lovely glades and forests. The river Jhelum meanders its steady course
through corn-fields into the heart of the Srinagar city and, onwards, till
it rushes headlong through the frowning gorges, and dashing against
boulders joins the Arabian Sea through the plains of Punjab.
The Pir Panchal Range
The
onlooker will find nature wild and vibrant wherever he may go in the
country. The mountains lend unique charm to the land and in this aspect of
its natural beauty; Kashmir even excels the much-adored Switzerland. To a
traveler hailing from the plains or other parts of India and the world,
familiar with the routes leading into Kashmir, the whole sweep of towering
ranges opens up before his eyes when he steps up the Pir Panchal (also
spelt as Panjal) whose peaks rise over 15,000 feet on the South-West of
the country. The natural surroundings of Kashmir unfold themselves on the
journey both through the Banihal and the Jhelum Valley roads. Here one
observes a sharp change of scene.
The freshness and the peaceful calm of the atmosphere on these
snow-peaked ranges as against the arid heat, din and fatigue of the
Sun-baked plains of India, act as a tonic to one's body and fill one's
mind with a feeling of pleasant contrasts. This is the first glimpse the
sun-tanned visitor has of the glamour of Kashmir, which he had often
heard, sung in prose as well as verse. In fact, no other part of the
country offers such a lovely sight.
On the Panchal range, there are a few remarkable peaks viz., the three
peaks round the Konsar Nag (12,800 ft.), Tratakoti (15,524 ft), the
highest on this range, and Romesh Thong also named as "Sun-Set Peak"
by Dr. Arthur Neve when he climbed it. A feature of this mountain range is
the luxuriant growth of wild flowers. Also an alpine plant called "Saussurea
Sacra" grows here in abundance.
From Pir Panchal range further north, the open grassy highlands of Tosa
Maidan (14,000 ft. high) catch the eye. The pastures of this vast highland
are the regular haunts of the cheerful, homely shepherds who bring up
their flocks for grazing. Further Northwest is the Kazi Nag range - the
home of the Markhor. It stands 12,125 feet high and is snow-covered with
slopes coated with dense forests. The towering peak of Nanga Parbat (26,
620 ft. high) stands as a sentinel guarding, as it were, the Valley on
this side. It is an imposing sight.
Pilgrimages Within The Korakoram
Far away from here are seen the Karakoram ranges also known as "Mustagh",
with some of its peaks rising over 25,000 ft and among them the
World-famous K2 (over 28,000 ft.), the second highest in the world, stands
out boldly in its mountain glory. To the east of the valley stands the
noble, snow-clad peak of Haramukh (16,903 ft.) overlooking it.
The famous Gangabal lake of Haramukh is regarded as sacred by Kashmiri
Hindus to the same extent as Haridwar is held in India. Here also
Saussurea Sacra grows in plenty. Another remarkable peak in the east seen
all over the city is Mahadev (13,000 ft.). In summer pilgrims climb this
peak. On the lower sides of this mountain, one comes across a herb
Macrotomia Benthami in wild profusion. This herb is well known as "Kah
Zaban" or "Gaw Zaban". The local physicians frequently
prescribe it to ailing persons.
On the South of the Valley, the peaks of Amarnath
and Kolahoi springing from the same massif are found prominent. Amarnath
stands 17, 321 feet high and Kolahoi 17,800 feet. Kolahoi is also known as
"Gwash Brari". At dawn the radiant rays of the sun fall on this
cone-like peak and the lurid glare of the dazzling snows is a sight. Here
and there on this range, one is attracted by wild graceful flowers, wild
roses, poppies, anemones and hosts of other unknown floral varieties. Shri
Amarnath is a famous ancient shrine. It is interesting to observe the
colors these ranges richly display at certain hours of the day.
The Lake Region
For its fresh-water lakes and tarns, Kashmir is known all over the world.
Those lying in the valley against the charming mountain background are the
Wular Lake, the
Dal Lake and the
Manasbal Lake. The
Wular is the largest fresh-water lake in India and according to some,
perhaps in Asia too. The Dal Lake lies on the suburbs of Srinagar in the
east. Against the mountain background, which is reflected in its calm
expanse and enclosed by trees the lake looks superb. In summer, it is a
paradise for visitors who glide over its waters in Shikaras and
houseboats. The Manasbal Lake is the deepest lake in the country and with
its greenish-blue waters it surely makes wondrous water body beauty.
Besides these lakes, which are fed by the melting snows from the
mountains, there are hosts of mountain tarns form-glared by the glacial
action and other phenomenal activities of range nature. There are several
glaciers on Haramoukh, fed by the large snowfields on the summit, which
are of great thickness. There are lakelets varying in size from mere ponds
to sheets of water a mile or so in length and quarter a mile broad. Most
of these occur at a height of 11,500 feet.
There
can be no doubt that they are all due in some way to glacial action, and
that they are not of very remote age. But the small glacier on the
shoulders gone, of such mountains as Haramoukh or Tutakuthi would not
exceed 200 feet in thickness, and would not be capable of excavating hard
rocks beneath. So the numerous tarns and lakes may be own regarded as due
chiefly to the formation of embankments across line of drainage.
Sometimes such embankments are caused by the deposit of avalanche debris
from a slideslope or by the advance of a side glacier with its lateral
moraines. The lakes and lakelets found in upper valleys around Haramukh
mountain are Gangabal, Lool Gool and Sarbal. They are at an elevation of
nearly 12,000 feet above sea level. The shimmering waters lend glory to
the Gangabal Lake, which stands at an elevation of 11,800 feet.
Glacial Panorama
To the South cast of the Pir Panchal range lies the lake Konsar Nag
(12,800 feet) surrounded by three peaks. It's fed by glaciers and is said
to be a source of the Jhelum River. In the spring and summer, the water is
some 40-ft higher than in winter. In the spring, its surface is said to be
covered with icebergs, which are driven about by the wind.
In the Liddar Valley, large glaciers are observed. On the mountain range
of this Valley, the glaciers are found in Kolahoi. From here to the cast
on the way to Amarnath cave lies the famous Shesh Nag at an elevation of
14,000 feet. Glaciers are quiet prominent in this area.
Coming into the Valley proper, one finds the frozen lake of Alapathar or
Apharwat, well over Khilanmarg. Flowers of rainbow colors are found in
wild profusion here. The mountain tarn stands at the height of about
12,500 feet. It is said to be 500 yards long and 150 yards wide. The
surroundings are austere and wild. It is popular haunt of tourists.
The nearest tarn to the city is that of Harwan on the slopes of Mahadev
Mountain about a mile and a half further away from the Moghul garden -
Shalimar. The source of its fresh water is Tarsar, a lake on the Amarnath
Mountain. Harwan looks beautiful in its sylvan surroundings. This tarn is
the chief source of water supply to the city.
Besides the above enumerated lakes and lakelets, there are scores of
tarns and glaciers found in the mountain ranges around the Gurais valley,
Ladakh and Karakorams.
Wilderness In The Hills
Kashmir is rich in forests. A variety of spruce, stately trees some of
which are towering masses, grow in them such as Blue Pine, silver Fir,
Himalayan spruce, Birch, Maple, Beech, Hazel, wild Oak. Almost all the
mountains are coated with dense forests, which, besides lending charm and
healthful fragrance to the atmosphere, are a great factor of revenue to
the country.
The best varieties of pine and Deodar are found in the dense forests of
Kishtwar and Bhaderwah. The Lolab valley too is thick with them. These
forests are regular haunt of lovers of sports. Ibex, Snow Leopard, Musk
Deer, Wolves, Red Bear, Markhor, Black Bear, Barasingha, etc can be found
in these forests. Ibex is a wild goat with very long horns. Snow leopards
are also found in high forests.
The country also holds a variety of winged game, such As Duck, Goose,
Chakor, Monal Pheasant, Patridge And Snipe. These are found in low
forests, in swamps and on banks of the lakes.
Kashmir is pre- eminently the land of forests which stately among other
things are the mainstay of its economy. Belladonna grows well among the
firs, and its roots and leaves, which are used in pharmaceutical
processes, yield about 500 mounds a year. The Drug Research Laboratory
makes considerable use of Bella Donna. The scattered wild growth of this
plant is being framed out on a larger scale at Tangmarg with considerable
success.
The blue pine is one of the most useful trees. Its wood makes excellent
charcoal, its resin is used for medicinal purposes, and in the mountain
villages pine chips are used as lights and torches.
The silver fur has durable wood, free from knots and consequently easy to
work. This tree grows to great size, reaching in some cases to one hundred
and fifty feet in length and sixteen feet in girth.
The elm is a dine tree and is used for ploughs and buildings. The young
shoots are fed to the buffaloes Boatmen like the ash tree for the paddles
it produces, and walnut is priced for the making of furniture and
spinning, wheels, but its growth and has not yet been fully developed.
Vale Of Chinar
The most magnificent tree of Kashmir, and one of the most splendid in the
world, is the Chinar. Sir Walter Lawrence states that he once measured
one, which was sixty feet in girth. It is a beautiful tree, majestic, and
giver of perfect shade from the sun and of protection from the rain. In
the autumn, its reddening leaves are one of the sights, which the visitors
to Kashmir can never forget. Its Timber is used for making oil-presses,
boxes of all kinds and furniture. The Moghuls, it is said, introduced the
Chinar, and the poplar, into Kashmir. The Chinar is splendid monument to
them.