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Dal - A Lake Made Of Lakes
Dal Lake is, initially, one of the most confusing parts of
Srinagar for
it's not really one lake at all, but three. Further more much of it is
hardly what one would expect a lake to be like - it's a maze of intricate
waterways and channels, floating islands of vegetation, houseboats that
look so firmly moored they could almost be islands and hotels on islands
which look like they could simply float away.
Dal Lake lies immediately to the east and north of Srinagar and stretches
over 5-km. The lake is divided into Gagribal, Lokut Dal and Bod Dal by a
series of causeways.
Nagin Lake
Nagin Lake, which is usually thought of as a separate lake, is also
divided from Dal Lake only by a causeway. The causeways are mostly
suitable for walkers and bicycles only so they make a very pleasant way of
seeing the lake without having to worry about traffic or Shikaras.
The main causeway across the lake carries the water pipeline for
Srinagar's main water supply. Dal gate, at the city end of Dal Lake,
controls the flow of the lake into the Jhelum river canal. It's the steady
flow of water through the lake, combined with its relatively cold
temperature, which keeps it so clear looking.
Houseboats
The largest group of houseboats lies along the western edge of the lake
near the lakeside boulevard, towards Dal gate. They are lined in looping
rows and around small islands. Several hotels can also be found on flat
islands in the lake. Beyond the houseboats to the northwest are the
floating gardens.
Attractions Around Dal Lake
There are three islands in the lake; three real islands anyway, there are
other sorts of islands joined by causeways. Around the lake are many of
Srinagar's most interesting sights, in particular the pleasant Mughal
gardens. It's also flanked by hills, particularly along its east bank. The
Shankaracharya hill provides a very fine view over the lake.
Have A Swim!
The
waters of Dal Lake are amazingly clear. Nevertheless one is advised not to
go swimming in the lake although the swimming houseboats, equipped with
diving boards and chutes, are moored in a deeper part of the lake,
'upstream' from the concentration of houseboats. Swimming here can be
quite refreshing, especially on a hot afternoon. One will undoubtedly be
joined by a number of Indians, including Hindu women who swim in their
saris.
Floating Gardens
The lake is probably at its most beautiful when the lotus flowers bloom
in July and August. The floating gardens, known as "Rad" in
Kashmiri, are one of the stranger aspects of Dal Lake. They're composed of
matted vegetation and earth, which are cut away from the lake bottom and
towed to a convenient location where they are moored. Tomatoes, Cucumbers
and Melons all grow amazingly well in these gardens, if one look
underneath one can see that they do literally float on the lake. One can
also approach the floating gardens by road; the boulevard runs along the
eastern edge of the lake, providing fine views all the way.
One will often see weeds being pulled up out of the lake - this serves a
double purpose. The lake waterways are kept clear and the weeds are rotted
until they form excellent compost for the gardens. The shallowness of the
lake and its heavy growth of waterweeds is probably the main reason there
are so very few powered boats on the water. Dal Lake would be nowhere near
as pleasant if there were powerboats rushing back and forth across its
tranquil surface.
Shikaras
There are many tours around the lake but by far the best way to see it is
to take a Shikara for a day and do a circuit of the
Mughal gardens. At a
reasonable price, there's hardly any other lazier and more pleasurable way
of getting into the swing of Srinagar.
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