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Beyond the village of Aru,
the trekking region between Pahalgam and
Sonamarg is essentially a wilderness area for
over six months of the year. During the short summer grazing season, from
June to mid September, the Kashmiri shepherds, the Gujar buffalo herders
and the Bakharval goat herders drive their animals up the Lidder and Sindh
valleys. This annual migration has followed a traditional grazing pattern
for many generations.
The actual locals are the Kashmiri shepherds, who confine their grazing
to the lower altitudes, settling in the pastures within a few km of
Pahalgam or Sonamarg. The Kashmiri shepherd is easily distinguished by his
Ferun (also spelt as Pheran), the woollen smock he wears and under which
he carries his 'Kangri' or traditional day firepot.
The Trend Of Migration
The Gujar, with their herds of water buffalo, migrate higher up the
valleys. They subsist by selling buffalo milk in the local villages, and
usually have a small flock of sheep to supplement their income. These
shepherds originally migrated many centuries ago from Gujarat to the
Himalayan foothills. As the pressure of land usage built up on the plains,
the Gujar continued to migrate higher to the hills, crossing the Pir
Panjal range each summer in search of new grazing areas.
Gujar's In Present Times
These days the J&K state government has adopted a policy of
resettlement for the Gujar, and many now spend the winter months close to
the village below the summer grazing pastures. The Gujar, and many now
spend the winter months close to the villages below the summer grazing
pastures. The Gujar who graze their animals at Satalanjan in the Liddar
valley for instance, now settle in the villages just below Pahalgam during
the winter.
Similarly, the shepherds from Sonamous take their buffalo down to the
villages in the lower Sindh (also spelt as Sind) valley. The Gujar are
easily identified by their turbans and the brightly coloured blankets that
cover their shoulders. They are still considered to be outsiders and
rarely intermarry with the Kashmiri people.
The third group of shepherds are the Bakharval, the goat herders who move
their huge flocks to the highest pastures during summer. The Bakharval are
the cousin brothers of the Gujar, and have a lucrative business. Goat wool
is sold at a high price as it is made into the famous Kashmir shawls. The
Bakharval still lead a semi-nomadic existence, sometimes driving their
flocks over the passes into
Ladakh .
As the winter approaches they return over the Pir Panjal passes back to
the Reasi district of Jammu. It is these shepherds who make it easier for
us to trek in Kashmir. They assume responsibility for reconstructing the
bridges over the high flowing streams, and clear rock scree from the
trails, so that one can follow in their footsteps.
BROKPAS
Brokpas form the community inhabiting the Dras (also spelt as Drass)
Valley in Ladakh . It
is believed that they are the descendants of the Dards of Chilas in the
Gilgit region. Their ancestors migrated to this valley several centuries
back, probably due to the harsh environmental conditions.
Traditions And Culture
The Brokpas are a proud people who have retained their Aryan traditions
and culture even after living for centuries in a region greatly influenced
by Buddhism. This includes some very characteristic customs brought with
them from Chilas. This community belongs to the Sunni faith and they
maintain their separate identity from the Shias and Nurbakhshis who also
live in this tract. The local language spoken by the Brokpas is "Shinna",
which they speak amongst themselves. In their communications with other
communities, they use the Balti language, which most people in the region
understand.
The typical attire of the male consists of a long woollen gown held at
the waist by a girdle of cloth with woollen trousers. The headgear
consists of a turban. The typical dress of the female consists of a loose
gown, which covers the whole body but is not very fashionable. The
headgear resembles an inverted wooden trough.
Livelihood
This community is relatively more backward economically than the Baltis
or other communities of this region. This disparity is probably due to the
comparatively difficult conditions that they have to endure. The town of
Drass has now grown considerably over the years with the opening up of the
market, which serves as a service center for the whole valley.
The general socio-economic condition of these people remains poor in
spite of their being industrious. The main sources of livelihood for these
people are animal husbandry, agriculture and allied occupations -- trade
and small business.
The Baltis are the inhabitants of the Suru Valley in
Ladakh. This community is a crossbreed between the Dards from Dardistan
and Mongoloids from Tibet.
Livelihood
Animal husbandry is the main source of livelihood for the Baltis. They
rear goats and sheep for wool, milk, skin and meat. These animals are also
used for trade. Agriculture and horticulture also form a significant
source of income for the Baltis. Other occupations include business and
trade and unskilled and semi-skilled labor.
Religious Taboos & Culture
The Baltis belong to the Shia sect of Islam. Being highly religious, they
hold their religious leaders, the Aghas, in very high esteem and
reverence, which is perhaps unparalleled anywhere in the world. The word
of the 'Agha' is law to the Shias. They have a unique cult of ceremonial
cleanliness, which is an essential part of their religion and culture. It
is a taboo for them to use any article such as water and food that may
have been touched by a non-Muslim, whether it be a Hindu or a Buddhist.
This can even apply to vegetables in a shop, which may have been
inadvertently touched by a non-Muslim.
In fact, there was a time when the Baltis would not use even medicines
given by a non-Muslim doctor. In recent times, however, such attitudes
have been changing. Mourning for the martyrs is another important
religious practice among the Baltis. This attitude of ineradicable
pessimism induced by religion influences every phase of the life of the
Baltis. One of the essential tasks to be performed by a Balti is the daily
recitation of the holy Quran (also spelt as Koran). There is a seminary in
every village, which is presided over by an Agha or Sheikh where the
population receives instruction in the doctrine of the Shia faith.
There was a time when the Shia Balti regarded merry-making and innocent
entertainment as being against the principles of his faith. Over the years
such rigid religious attitudes have softened.
Among Shia Baltis, matrimonial relations are greatly influenced by a
system of temporary marriage known as 'Muta'. Under this system, all
marriages are temporary and contracted for a definite period of time that
has to be agreed upon by both parties before the marriage takes place. The
period of temporary marriage may vary from a week to many years.
Thereafter both the parties are free either to continue the relation for
another period of specified time or terminate it.
The Changpas live on the desolate Changthang plateau in
Ladakh, of which Rupshu is the highest inhabited part. The region has an
extremely dry climate and living conditions are extremely difficult. The
population density is very low.
Livelihood
Animal husbandry is the main source of income for the Changpas. Barley is
raised over a limited area. Members of this community also collect salt
from the impure deposits on the northern shore of the Tsokar Lake in
Rupshu. This is sold all over Ladakh and in the past was sent even to the
Kashmir Valley. The Changpas also engage in petty trade. They may also act
as porters for the defence forces and various mountaineering expeditions.
Tradition And Culture
The members of this community lead a purely nomadic existence, although
many relatively rich families also maintain a permanent home in Rupshu,
the largest settlement of this region
Whole families move with their flock of goats, sheep and yaks. The yak is
used both for carrying their meagre belongings and also for its hair and
milk. They move with their animals and bags from one pasture to another,
retreating to the shelter of the valleys in winter though in the cold
season these retreats are very inhospitable by the standards of other
nomadic communities of the Himalayas. These winter pastures are in regions
where there is less snowfall and where their flocks are not allowed to
graze in the summer months.
The Changpas live in tents made from the hair of the yaks and goats all
the year round -- even during the peak winters. Hutments made of stones
are also being used nowadays. These have been constructed in the main
settlements at Rupshu, Puga and Karzok. There are good alpine pastures in
this area to which these communities move during various parts of the year
with their cattle.
They camp there for a specific period of time after which the whole
family moves to another place. The use of pastures is usually hereditary
and the right is passed on from one generation to the other.
Members of this community are god-fearing and believe in local gods or
deities. Many of them are Buddhists.