Dal
Lake
The Dal is famous not only for its beauty, but for its vibrance, because
it sustains within its periphery, a life that is unique anywhere in the
world. The houseboat and Shikara communities have lived for centuries on
the Dal, and so complete is their infrastructure on the lake, that they
never have to step on land! Doctors, tailors, bakers- one can see them all
in tiny wooden shops on the lake, near picturesque vegetable gardens and
acres of lotus gardens.
Nagin
Lake
Nagin Lake, which is usually thought of as a separate lake, is also
divided from Dal Lake only by a causeway. The causeways are mostly
suitable for walkers and bicycles only so they make a very pleasant way of
seeing the lake without having to worry about traffic or Shikaras. The
main causeway across the lake carries the water pipeline for Srinagar's
mains water supply.
Islands
There are three main islands in the lake, each poplar excursion points.
Silver Island is at the northern end of Dal Lake and is also known as "Char
Chinar" after the four-chinar trees, which grow on it. There's a
small snack bar on the island as there is also on Gold Island at the south
end of the lake. It is also known as "Char Chinar" for it too
has four Chinar trees.
The third island is Nehru Park, at the end of the main stretch of the
boulevard and only a short distance from the shore. It too has a
restaurant although it's a very run down, miserable affair. The children's
playground here has also seen better days. Often in summer there are
evening shows, dances and festivals held at Nehru Park.
North of Nehru Island a long causeway leads out into the lake from the
boulevard just off its end is "Kotar Khana", the 'house of
pigeons', which was once a royal summer house.
The Bund
From above Zero Bridge to below Badshah Bridge one can walk along the
banks of the Jhelum River on the popular footpath known as the bund. It's
a pleasant relaxing place to stroll along and many Doonga houseboats can
be seen beside it. The GPO, the government handicrafts emporium and a
string of handicraft shops are all close beside the Bund.
Shri Pratap Singh Museum
The Shri Pratap Singh museum is in Lal Mandi, just south of the river
between zero bridge and Amira Kadal. It has an interesting collection of
exhibits relevant to Kashmir including illustrated tiles excavated near
Harwan.
The museum is open from 10.00 am to 5.00 pm except on Wednesdays when it
is closed and admission is free.
Mughal
Gardens
Kashmir
was a favourite of the Mughal emperors who visited it as often as they
could. Cool and refreshing after the plains of North India where the
business of governance kept them, they planted gardens with stepped
terraces and flowing watercourses. When they rested in their gardens, they
dreamt they were in paradise.
Cheshma Shahi is the first Mughal garden one will pass after Nehru Park.
Built at a height above the city, its views are as stupendous as its
layout. The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal gardens, Cheshma Shahi has only
three terraces in addition to a natural spring of water enclosed in a
stone pavilion.
The next garden along the road that encircles the Dal is the Nishat,
built by empress Nur Jahan's brother Asaf Khan. The largest of the
gardens, Nishat has several terraces, a central watercourse and a majestic
site between the Dal and the Zabarwan hills.
The third Mughal garden - the Shalimar - was planted by Jehangir, the
Mughal emperor, whose love for Kashmir was legendary. Shaded by
magnificent Chinar trees, the Shalimar is a series of stone pavilions and
flowing water with paint box bright flowerbeds.
Pari Mahal
The old Sufi college of Pari Mahal, the 'palace of the fairies', is only
a short distance above the Chasma Shahi gardens. One can easily walk from
the gardens up to the Pari Mahal then follow a footpath directly down the
hill to the road that runs by the Oberoi Palace Hotel. The Pari Mahal
consists of a series of arched terraces. Recently it has been turned into
a very pleasant and well-kept garden with fine views over Dal Lake. It's
attractively sited on a spur of the Zabarwan Mountains. The gardens are
beautifully kept even today and a Son Et Lumiere show is put on here every
evening during the May to October tourist season.
Nasim
Bagh
Only a short distance beyond the Hazratbal mosque, the Nasim gardens, the
'garden of tepid airs' or 'garden of the morning breeze', were built by
the Mughal emperor Akbar after his conquest of Kashmir in 1586. He had
1,200 Chinar trees planted in the garden, which is the oldest of Kashmir's
Mughal gardens.
Hari
Parbat Fort
The 18th century fort tops the Sharika Hill, which is clearly visible,
rising to the west of Dal Lake. The fort was constructed by Atta Mohammed
Khan from 1776 but the surrounding wall is much older, it was built
between 1592 and 1598 during the rule of Akbar. The wall stretches for
5-km and is 10 metres high and has two gates, the Kathi and Sangin
Darwaza.
Burzahom
In the opposite direction from the Shalimar gardens about 5-km to the
northwest, are the even older excavations of Burzahom. The archaeological
dig here has provided evidence of people living in the vale up to 5,000
years ago. The oldest excavations have revealed implements, pots, animal
skeletons, arrowheads and tools from the Neolithic age. Much of the
material taken from this site is now in the museum in Srinagar.