A sculptured marvel at
Mahabalipuram, often
called "Arjuna's Penance", is an enormous relief made on two
huge boulders. One of the biggest open-air rock canvases in the world,
this bas-relief is 31m long and 9m high. The surface of the rock has
detailed carvings, showing the most endearing and natural renditions of
animals. 
The Theme
Critics are divided over the theme: one school believes that it shows
Arjuna undertaking a penance to obtain a rare weapon against his enemies.
The other believes that it depicts the legend of the River Ganges's
descent to earth. According to them, cleft appeared in the rock dividing
the canvas in two, when Shiva responded to Bhagirathas penance.
The Carvings On The Rock
Arjuna's Penance, the exquisitely sculpted scene, which presents mans
view of the universe, has over 100 figures of gods and semi divine
creatures, birds and beasts, man and saint. All these figures are carved
either facing or approaching the fissure and generally with hands folded
in adoration.
The cleft in the rock depicts the descent of River Ganga (also known as
Ganges), brought to earth by King Bhagiratha to redeem the cursed souls of
his ancestors. On the left side of the fissure can be seen a simple temple
which contains a four-armed deity, probably Shiva. The fissure is
sculptured with Nagas. Above the fissure and on either side of it are
flying figures of Gods and below are some sculptures of animals of which
giant elephants are the most impressive and are considered to be the
noblest creations of the human mind.
Arjuna, one of the Pandava brothers and a consummate archer, is shown
standing on one leg, doing penance to obtain a boon from Lord Shiva. There
is a forest with tribal people and all forms of animal life, just as they
would appear in their habitat. Women are clothed in an aura of
indescribable grace, a rich inner beauty transfiguring the plainest of
them. The comic scene in the relief will amuse visitors where a cat is
standing doing penance, while big and small rats are freely playing around
the feline 'Tapaswi'.
A monkey family has also been depicted in a very exquisite and appealing
manner. In the liveliness of each figure, one can notice the intense and
naive love of life that characterizes the Buddhist art at Sanchi.
Legend Connected With Arjuna's Penance
What is depicted here in the great open-air sculpture has a story behind
it and has been the subject of difference of opinion among historians. The
older theory is that it represents the penance of Arjuna during his exile
in the Himalayas, in the hope that Shiva would part with his favourite
weapon, the "Pashupatashatra", a magic staff or arrow. All
generally accepts this popular interpretation.
Some historians like Ferguson, Burgess, Vogel, Touvean, Dubreine and
Langhurst have not accepted the above theory but put forward different
ones, which are given below:
The view held by Ferguson and Burgess is that this sculpture represents "Serpent
Worship" in ancient India and that "in the center on a
projecting ledge between the two great masses of rock once stood the
statue of the great Nagaraja who was the principal personage for whose
honour this great bas-relief was designed".
A later theory supported by Langhurst and Dr. Coomaraswamy (also splet as
Coomaraswami) is that it depicts the "Descent of the Ganges"
from the height of Kailasha (also spelt as Kailash). If this view is
accepted, then the personage who has been identified, as Arjuna should be
called "Bhagiratha" and this great sculpture as Bhagiratha's
penance and not Arjuna's. But no local tradition exists which can serve as
a real clue to its origin.
Air: The nearest airport from
Mahabalipuram is
Chennai, located
around 60-km away. One can get flights for almost all major destinations
in India and abroad.
Rail: The nearest railway station is Chengalpattu, around 29-km
away from Mahabalipuram.
Trains for Chennai
and several other major cities in
South
India are available from here.
Road: Mahabalipuram
is connected by road to Chennai,
Tirukkalikundram (Pakshithirtham),
Kanchipuram (65-km), and
Pondicherry.
Accommodation is available at the hotels in Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram).