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Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh is a veritable treasure house
of traditional designs ranging from the classical butis (dots) to the
famous ' Tree of Life ', The butis are restful even though sparkling when
tinted in solid colors. Mango, 'paisley' as it is known in the West, is
made in a vast variety of shapes, and used in bold, medium and even fine
designs. 
A Riot of Colours
The composition is first printed in harmonizing colors and later
elaborated with delicate details painted in with a brush. A variety of
blossoms merge in this luxuriant tree. It is primarily a decorative piece
unrelated to any symbol but has a flavour of growth and prosperity. The
spirited heraldic lions that guard the tree speak of a Hindu tradition.
Centres Of Printing
Lucknow 's
specialty is 'paisley'. Other designs seem to be influenced by the local
chikan embroidery patterns.
Jehangirabad is distinguished for its bold lines and toned down colors,
influenced by the jamdani and jamevar weaves.
Tanda (Faizabad) known for its jamdani weave is also the centre of a very
elaborate printing of graphic quality, which gives the fabric an antique
look. Two blocks with the same design are used, one perforated and stuffed
with cotton to a saturation of color, while the other is plain. These are
then printed and reprinted and juxtaposed in the process, developing a
dark red color for printing the motifs. The background shade however
varies.
A very novel design is a 'batoli chintz', in which against a deep black
indigo are placed red diamond-shaped dots of varying sizes that create a
startling effect.